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2011 October

2011/10/08 - After a week of cold temperatures (40's) and rain, we were greeted by an absolutely beautiful weekend with sunshine and temperatures in the high 70's!

The most temperature-sensitive task remaining is to repaint the deck, so this took priority. The pneumatic sander was used to remove most of the old deck paint on about 75% of the deck and to smooth over the fairing compound that was laid down a couple of weeks ago.

Since the smoothed-over plugs for the deck hardware would be difficult to locate once the deck is painted, holes were drilled into the pads for the new bow cleats to prevent any future misalignments.

Next the wood on the gunwales was masked off and the foredeck was painted as a trial both of the paint and of the conditions to see if it would dry/cure in the cool temperatures overnight. This was also a coverage test to see if it would be possible to determine how many coats might be needed. According to some boat owners in Florida, they needed four coats with this paint.

Tomorrow should be another nice day. Can't wait to see how much progress can be made!

2011/10/09 - No flashy photos today. Spent the whole day sanding the deck, completing all but the afte deck around the lazarette.

2011/10/10 - Another long day with the sander in hand. The pneumatic one didn't want to work properly. I wound up overhauling the air motor and was able to get some power out of it for a short time, but then it seemed to start sticking and losing power again. My guess is that there is a little water in the air and that it's causing the vanes in the motor to bind up in their slots. A search in the garage could not produce the air tool oil, so I used some silicone lubricant instead. This worked for a while, but then the motor went to being anemic once more, so I resorted to using the electric sander(s).

What remained to do today was the coach roof. To do it properly, the main hatch had to come off. Fortunately, this is easy to do. Step one is to remove the screws that hold the metal slides, allowing the hatch to lift off.
Next, there are some screws that come up through the coach roof to hold the rail supports in place forward of the companionway. These came out easily, but at least half were corroded completely through the shank and will need to be replaced.

The ends of the rail supports around the companionway are attached in such a way that they hold together the inner cabin liner and the edge of the deck. First step is to dig out the bungs to expose the screws holding in the trim pieces.

Once the screws are removed the trim piece will come right off to expose the deck/liner joint, although one of the pieces had a nail holding one end in place.

With the trim piece removed, the screws holding the rail support can be extracted. The screws do not appear to be uniform in spacing nor are there the same number on each side of the companionway. (At least this was the case on my boat.) Once removed, the rail support piece can be pulled up, but be advised that there will likely be a great deal of sealant underneath the piece of wood, making removal a bit challenging.

The wooden pieces were taken into the garage along with the hatch itself for some refinishing there. Some plastic was then used to attenuate the amount of dust that would find its way below and the remainder of the deck was sanded down in preparation for painting.

With the sanding out of the way, some serious progress was made toward getting the deck repainted. About half of the boat has received her first coat. Based on the way the paint seems to be covering, three coats should do the job (including one coat with non-skid additive). The trick will be to get most of this done before the weather gets too cold to support this activity.

Here's a nice shot showing the coach roof with a before/after look. What a difference!

2011/10/15 - A cold, wet, windy day. Swept the tree leaves and seeds off the deck, but then a gust dumped more on the deck, so it was not a good day to do any more painting. (Bah!)

Instead, the portlights from the main saloon were cleaned up and made ready to be remounted once the painting is complete. The first step involves removing the plexiglass (polycarbonate?) from the frame.

This is done by carefully breaking the seal between the bedding compound (RTV silicone) and the plexiglass. We have to keep in mind that the frame is cast and could be brittle. We don't want to bend or break it since we don't have spares!

Once the seal is broken, the "glass" can be lifted out of the frame.

Once removed, the edges of the glazing need to be cleaned so that, when rebedded, they are less likely to leak.

Not just the surfaces, but the actual "edges" of the panes need to be cleaned of all old bedding compound.

With the glazing removed, attention can now be turned to the frames. All of the old bedding compound needs to be removed to ensure a watertight seal when it gets reinstalled. A sturdy putty knife is the best tool for this.

After cleaning up the frames of the portlights, attention was turned to the companionway hatch. Hardware was removed and work started to prep the surface for repainting, inside and out.

2011/10/16 - Weather was slightly warmer today, with somewhat diminished winds, so painting could commence. Before dark, about 85% of the deck had its first coat of paint.

Also completed, some of the teak trim from the main hatch received its first coat of varnish.

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